Shopping for a new fragrance can feel overwhelming, especially when faced with a glossary of unfamiliar French terms. But taking a moment to familiarize yourself with the difference between a parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, eau fraîche, and perfume oil can make it easier to determine which to get.
Below, we asked two master perfumers to break it all down. Consider this your handy guide to fragrance types, including how long each one lasts, the notes they typically feature, how to choose the right one for you, and some of the most popular options on the market.
Meet the Experts
- Alexandra Monet is a creative perfumer at DSM-Firmenich with over 15 years of experience in the fragrance industry.
- Bérénice Watteau is a fine fragrance perfumer at DSM-Firmenich with a background in creating globally recognized scents, including Jil Sander’s Smoke.
Parfum
If you’re looking for something strong and long-lasting, consider opting for a parfum. According to creative perfumer Alexandra Monet, “A parfum is usually the highest concentration of fragrance in alcohol, we call them extrait de parfum or perfume extract sometimes,” noting that they can range from 25% to 50% concentration. Fine fragrance perfumer Bérénice Watteau adds, “It’s rich, long-lasting, and tends to stay on the skin for six to eight hours or more. Parfums often include intense base notes such as woods, vanilla, spices, or gourmand accords, giving them a deep and luxurious character.”
Some of the most popular parfums on the market include Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum, Chanel No. 5 Parfum, and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady Parfum, each known for its powerful scent and high price tag.
Eau de Parfum
Eau de parfum (EDP) is one of the most common fragrance types on the market, typically containing 15 to 20% perfume oil. According to Watteau, it’s slightly lighter than a parfum but still offers impressive longevity, generally lasting four to six hours. “EDPs are often well-balanced between top, middle, and base notes, making them a popular choice for both day and evening wear,” she explains.
Monet adds that eau de parfum perfectly balances strength and staying power. Some of the most well-known EDPs include Dior Miss Dior Eau de Parfum, Tom Ford Black Orchid Eau de Parfum, Yves Saint Laurent Libre Eau de Parfum, and Le Labo Santal 33 Eau de Parfum, each with its cult following.
Eau de Toilette
An eau de toilette (EDT) typically contains five to 15% fragrance concentration, with most falling around the seven to 12% mark, explains Watteau. “It’s lighter than an eau de parfum and usually lasts about two to four hours on the skin,” she says. While eau de colognes often lean citrusy, EDTs offer a wider range of scent profiles like fresh florals, soft woods, or airy spices.
That said, don’t dismiss them as too fleeting. “While they are less powerful, they can still offer good longevity,” notes Monet. Many beloved fragrances come in EDT form, including Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau de Toilette and Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau de Toilette.
Eau de Cologne
An eau de cologne (EDC) typically has the lowest concentration of perfume oil, around two to five percent, making it a great option for light, refreshing wear, especially in warmer months, says Monet. That lower concentration means it won’t last as long as an eau de parfum or eau de toilette.
“It’s very light and fresh, focusing mostly on citrus and aromatic notes,” explains Watteau. “Because these ingredients are highly volatile, EDCs tend to evaporate quickly and usually last about one to two hours on the skin.” Still, they’re perfect for a midday refresh or subtle scent moment. Popular picks include Acqua di Parma Colonia and Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne, both of which are unisex, bright, and zesty.
Eau Fraîche
An eau fraîche is similar in concentration to an Eau de Cologne, or sometimes even lower, typically containing just one to three percent fragrance oil. According to Watteau, what sets it apart is that it’s often diluted in water rather than mostly alcohol. This makes it especially refreshing and a great option for sensitive skin or hot, humid weather.
It’s all about lightness and freshness, with minimal lasting power. Very close in feel to an eau de cologne, popular examples include Chanel Chance Eau Fraîche and Versace Man Eau Fraîche.
Perfume Oil
Perfume oils are typically undiluted or only lightly diluted, meaning they contain a high concentration of fragrance without alcohol. “Unlike eau de parfums, they are diluted in oil, most often a vegetal oil, rather than alcohol,” explains Monet. “The concentration can range from very low to very high,” she adds, so it’s important to check the packaging for specific details before purchasing.
Because of their oil base, perfume oils tend to adhere well to the skin, allowing the scent to last longer and develop more slowly over time. They’re also ideal for layering, providing a base that helps other fragrances stay put. Popular options include Maison Louis Marie No. 04 Bois de Balincourt Perfume Oil and Amouage Reflection Perfume Oil.
How to Choose
According to Watteau, a helpful rule of thumb is to think in order of concentration. Eau de Cologne has the lowest, making it the lightest and most fleeting. Next is eau de toilette, followed by eau de parfum, then parfum, and finally perfume oil, which is often undiluted. “The intensity and longevity of the fragrance generally increase in that same order,” she explains.
When shopping, it comes down to how long you want the scent to last on your skin and how you want it to wear throughout the day. Do you want to leave a trail whenever you walk into a room, or do you prefer something softer and more fleeting?
Scent profile can also play a role. Parfums tend to emphasize deeper base notes like woods, spices, or resins, while eau fraîches often lean citrusy or floral, making them great for warm weather. Thinking about when and how you plan to wear your fragrance can help guide your choice.
The Final Takeaway
The main difference between a parfum, an eau de toilette, an eau de cologne, an eau fraîche, and a perfume oil comes down to the concentration of fragrance. Most scents are diluted in alcohol (or oil, in the case of perfume oils), and that concentration determines how strong the scent is and how long it will last. If you want something intense that lasts for hours, consider a parfum or perfume oil. Eau de cologne or eau fraîche are great options if you prefer something lighter and refreshing. Eau de parfums and eau de toilettes fall somewhere in the middle and are often considered the most versatile, with many bestselling scents offering wear times of about two to six hours.